The 18th century/part 2 - From Gothic horror to Rococo Frills

''The toileter of Venus'' Francois Boucher 1751 

ROCOCO  ас style appears in the early 18th century in Paris, France. Takes it's name from the French '' rocaille '' which means The rock of a broken shell - motifs that often form the design.Rococo replaced the heavy style of Baroque, who performed the task to convey the grandeur and power of absolute power. The Era in which Rococo appears characterized the  carefree life at the French court and also the pursuit of happiness and love. In painting are typical mythological and erotic scenes, images of entertainments, balls and shows. ROcoco was looking for unity and harmony of the different elements in the interior: the corners of the rooms are rounded. furniture, mirrors and candlesticks are gilded and exquisitely combined with brilliant metallic decorations .Preferred colors were  delicate pastel shades of pink, light blue, beige, pale green, and the combination of white and gold  - The furniture was elegant and frivolous, with gilt floral elements and lots of details and natural and flower motifs. Typical were the luxury porcelain tea sets which were mostly for decoration than for practical use, all was about how it looks. One of the main components in the interior of a rococo was the gilt-framed mirror placed over the marble fireplace and  on the upper part are arranged all sorts of porcelain figurines, clocks, candlesticks, lacquered boxes and other trinkets.. In this period  the Eastern and Chinese influence are increased . In furnishing palaces there was almost always and Chinese room, furnished with china and Chinese furniture  that were right fit in the style of Rococo. From China were borrowed the Wallpaper which contributed for the color and figural palette. By mid-18th century rococo  gradually gave way to neoclassicism. 

Marquise de Pompadour at the Toilet-Table by Francois Boucher, 1758

Madame De Pompadour by François Boucher (1756)

Bedroom in Rococo style

Rococo furniture 

Rococo style gild wood mirror 

Rococo mirror in Ludwigsburg Palace, Germany 

Rococo tea set

Rococo wallpaper

One example of the Chinese influence in Rococo style and furnishing is the Chinese room in  Claydon House, Buckinghamshire. Here the rococo continues, but this time in a form known as Chinoiserie — essentially a Chinese version of the rococo decorative style. It represents fanciful European interpretations of Chinese styles.Sometimes copied Chinise objects but more frequently originate in designer's imagination. Inspired mostly by the importation of porcelain and silk from China and Japane. (The popularity of chinoiserie peaked around the middle of the 18th century, when it was easily assimilated into rococo by the works of  Francois Boucher) The entire room is a fantasy of carved pagodas, Chinese fretwork, bells and temples while oriental scrolls and swirls swoop around the walls and doors reaching a crescendo in the temple-like canopy, which would have once contained a bed, but now gives a throne-like importance to a divan.

Chinoiserie plasterwork and carved wood decoration in the Chinese Room at Claydon House, Buckinghamshire

The Chinese Room at Claydon House, Buckinghamshire.

Modern Chinoiserie wallpaper by ''De Gournay'' 

Chinoiserie porcelain 

MARIE ANTOINETTE (2006)

is a movie about queen of France, Marie Antoinette, in the 18th century.  In the movie, a great amount of pastel, sorbet colors were used to enhance, even exaggerate the art style of the Rococo period. 

GOTHIC: 

Gothic is a medieval style that originated in 12th century Paris. Gothic style is typical of Germany, France and England, where he continued until about 1550. Gothic architecture emphasizes vertical shapes and skeletal stone structures, pointed arches and rosette windows. Cathedrals are often decorated with statues outside often depicting saints and biblical paintings inside with scenes from the Old and New Testament. It is believed that Gothic cathedrals are microscopic representation of the world. Pointed arches represent aspiration to Heaven, and the height and majestic dimensions are designed to leave a sense of the greatness of God and the misery of mortal creatures.
In the mid 18th century in the United Kingdom began a trend towards a return to the Gothic style called Neogothic . Pioneer of this revival of Gothic architecture is a writer and public Horace Walpole. He is the author of the novel "The Castle of Otranto", which pave the way to a  whole new literary genre - that of the Gothic novel. . There are lots of classic Gothic novels as ''The Hunchback of Notre-Dame'' by Victor Hugo, ''Frankenstein'' by Mary Shelley, ''Dracula'' by Bram Stoker and of course ''Vampire'' the first published modern vampire story by John William Polidori. In 18th century Gothic is primarily about atmosphere of creepy-hammer horror above anything else. 

Notre-Dame, Paris, France 

Cathedrale de Strasbourg

Gothic rosette window 

Gothic gargoyles

Gothic interior - Strawberry Hill,Twickenham

Gothic interior 

''The hunchback of Notre-Dame'' Illustration 

Frankenstain

''Dracula''

^{NEO-CLASSICISM}  is the most influental style of the second half of the 18th century. Associated with the Age of Enlightenment, and in particular with  the study at the time of the ancient classics and archaeological discoveries.

''During this time, writings by the Renaissance architects Giacomo da Vignola  and Andrea Palladio were widely translated and read. These writings inspired appreciation for the Classical orders of architecture  and the beautifully proportioned architecture of Classical Greece and Rome.''

The Principles of neo-classicism are borrowed from the architecture of ancient Greece and ancient Rome and are used as the new interpretation of the old. .Neo-classical architecture is a reaction against the  redundancy in baroque and rococo styles. it is an architectural nostalgia for the lost world of antiquity and a attempt to return to purity in architecture. It is a search for a '' true style '' and  desire to establish architectural standards as a national trend with precise and universal values. The Classic trends are linked to the national consciousness, as opposed to the Baroque, which is associated with state power , authority and power of the church. Dimensions, proportions and symmetry are key elements in the architecture of neo-classicism.

In Paintings we can associate the neo-classicism with the use of antion element in the composition. often the models are dressed in ancient clothes like toga or there are depict objects from ancient Rome or Greece, like busts, statues, columns, candlesticks, urns, ets. 

Portrait of Madame Récamier by Jacques-Louis David (1800, Louvre)

Madame Raymond de Verninac by  Jacques-Louis David

French Pantheon

Inside panoramic view of the French Panthéon.

British museum 

Brandenburgs gate, Berlin, Germany 

The entrance hall of Osterley Park, London Borough of Hounslow

French Neo-classical interior  living-room 

The style of Neoclassical fashion revives styles from Greco-Roman art which showed women wearing loose fitting rectangular tunics, which were belted under the bust, providing support for women and a cool, comfortable outfit suitable for the warm climate. Nowadays this tipe of dresses are known as Empire silhouette, Empire line or just Empire. 

Empire silhouette

Modern Empire line wedding dress

Designers inspired by the past/Research

We had to research modern artists, that are inspired in some shape or form by the past.  I have chosen some artist that I think take great inspiration form the past as well as having modern day influences


Alexander McQueen remains well-known for his highly original collections and spectacular fashion shows which frequently evoked historical themes. McQueen took apprenticeships at the Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard and then Gieves & Hawkes where he learned traditional British tailoring techniques. He later worked as a pattern cutter at the theatrical costumiers Angels and Bermans where he further focused his training in historic garment construction. McQueen’s 1995 Highland Rape collection, which placed him firmly on the world stage, was inspired by his own family history and the Highland Clearances. His radical re-presentation of historical narratives continued throughout his career alongside his innovative combination of contemporary and historic cut and materials. ‘I like to challenge history', he stated in the 2008 BBC series British Style Genius, in which he emphasised the semi-autobiographical nature of some of his historical subject choices. McQueen’s genius lie in being contemporary, futuristic and historical all at once. 

Opera dress 

Satin-Duchesse Puff Sleeve Dress

Alexander McQueen Runway Review | Fashion Week Fall 2013

“I don’t really get inspired [by specific women]. . . . It’s more in the minds of the women in the past, like Catherine the Great, or Marie Antoinette. People who were doomed. Joan of Arc or Colette. Iconic women.” 

Yves Saint Laurent  was a French fashion designer, and is regarded as one of the greatest names in fashion history. I found this dress design in 1965 and inspired by the Dutch art movement De Stijl and in particular by the works of the painter Piet Mondrian.

''Mondrian'' dress

''Mondrian'' dress

Pien Mondrian

Piet Mondrian

Piet Mondrian

Versace is an Italian fashion company and trade name founded by Gianni Versace in 1978. Gianni Versace‘s Spring 1991 collection featured outfits printed with Andy Warhol‘s brightly colored, silk-screened portraits of Marilyn Monroe, James Dean, another other famous icons.

Warhol’s works, which depicted pop culture icons in a brightly colored palette, were a perfect match for the flamboyant designs of Versace,

Marilyn Monroe and James Dean print

Marilyn Monroe and James Dean print 

Andy Warhol 

Andy Warhol

The 18th century/ Inspired by the past

Manchester from Kersal Moor , by William Wyld

In this session we talked about the 18th century known as Age of Enlightenment . We discussed the major changes in society that occurred in the 18th century and some typical forms of art of that time and modern day artists inspired by  past and in particular we compared some of the modern artist's work with that of artist of 18th century.  We looked at several famous artists of the period and compared them with modern day artists inspired from the past.
major changes that occurred in the 18th century аre:
- beginning of the modern age
- the expansion of empirical knowledge
- seeing and thinking for yourself
- age of enlightenment
- industrial revolution

'Enlightenment is associated with the pursuit of spiritual and material upliftment of people through both personal and through public education, and with the development of democratic principles. Supporters and promoters of the Enlightenment promise relief from superstition (to which some European philosophers and religions attributed) release of ideological and political oppression of the absolute monarchies that dominate European countries, highlighting the human person, the recognition of their rights and opportunities for physical prosperity through the development of science and education '(Karamuzi2004).

The worship of science is a feature of the Enlightenment  when many new sciences occurred  - political economy, sociology, psychology, statistics.  the eighteenth century is Often called. "Century of Philosophy"

We can talk a lot about the era of enlightenment, as these are the doors to the modern world we live in now. and yet the focus of our session was more on the art of this period and some modern artistс inspired by the past.
One exaple is Vivienne Westwood:

''I'm a great believer in copying. There has never been an age in which people have so little respect for the past''

She is known to get her inspiration by visiting historical museums like the Victoria and Albert Museum and London’s Wallace Collection. and taking ideas for designing clothes for her brand.

18th century coat

Other example of past-time inspiration in modern times is the logo used by Mc Ewan's beer which originated from the Dutch painter's  Frans Hals painting of ''Laughing Cavalier''

Laughing Cavalier

Mc Ewan's logo

Mc Ewan's logo 

Some of Grayson Perry's works are also inspired by the past. He is really interested in history and modern day society . His series of six tapestries depicting the taste ideas of Britons, entitled "The Vanity of Small Differences." analysed the ideas of taste held by the different social classes. they are inspired by the tapestries from the past who normally depicts the daily life of different social classes. like the famous Devonshire hunting tapestry;

Devonshire hunting tapestry

Grayson Perry's 'painting from "The Vanity of Small Differences." series 

Grayson Perry's 'painting from "The Vanity of Small Differences." series

Grayson Perry's 'painting from "The Vanity of Small Differences." series

We discussed some works of William Hogarth -  ''an English painter, printmaker, pictorial satirist, social critic, and editorial cartoonist  who has been credited with pioneering western sequential art .His work ranged from realistic portraiture to comic srtip-like series of pictures called "modern moral subjects". Knowledge of his work is so pervasive that satirical political illustrations in this style are often referred to as "Hogarthian" .  
We compared the modern artist Banksy as the modern version of Hogarth. Hogarth's as well as Banksy's works are focused on some problems of the society and show the moral issues of it. 

 In 1731 Hogarth completed the earliest of his series of moral works, a body of work that led to significant recognition. The collection of six scenes was entitled  A Harlot's Progress .A Harlot's Progress depicts the fate of a country girl who begins prostituting—the six scenes are chronological, starting with a meeting with a bawd and ending with a funeral ceremony that follows the character's death from venereal disease.The inaugural series was an immediate success and was followed in 1735 by the sequel A Rake's Progress  consisted of eight pictures that depicted the reckless life of Tom Rakewell, the son of a rich merchant, who spends all of his money on luxurious living, services from prostitutes, and gambling—the character's life ultimately ends in Bethlem Royal Hospital.

One of the scenes from  Rake's Progress by William Hogarth

One of the scenes from Harlot's Progress by William Hogarth 

Banksy 

Banksy 

Banksy 

 British painters from 18th century:

Newnham-on-Severn from Dean Hil - William Turner of Oxford 

William Turner was the most famous landscape artist of 18th centrury, specialised in watercolour landscapes.

Flin Castle - William Turner 

John Constable

Salisbury Cathedral  from the Meadows - John Constable 

''Painted in 1831, one year after the death of his wife, Maria, this painting was a personal statement of his turbulent emotions and his changing states of mind. He later added nine lines from “The Sea” by the eighteenth-century poet James Thomson that reveal the painting's meaning: That the rainbow is a symbol of hope after a storm that follows on the death of the young Amelia in the arms of her lover Celadon.The sky reflects this turbulence and shows his emotional state of being.

Possible political meanings have been attributed to it, one of which being the clash of industrialization and nature represented through the clash of elements.

Some symbolism in this painting includes:

• Grave marker: symbol of death
• Ash tree: symbol of life
• Church: symbol of faith and resurrection
• Rainbow: symbol of renewed optimism''

Thomas Gainsborought

''The work is an unusual combination of two common types of painting of the period: a double portrait, here of a recently married couple, and a andskape view  of the English countryside. Gainsborough's work mainly consisted of these two different genres, but their striking combination side-by-side in this extended horizontal format is unique in Gainsborough's oeuvre, and extremely rare in other painters. Conversation piece was the term for a portrait group that contained other elements and activities, but these normally showed more figures, set engaged in some activity or in an interior, rather than a landscape empty of people. Gainsborough was later famously given to complaining that well-paid portrait work kept him away from his true love of landscape painting, and his interest probably combined with that of his clients, a couple from two families whose main income was probably not from landowning, to make a more prominent display than was normal in a portrait of the country estate that had formed part of Mrs Andrews' dowly''